Leave blank for all. Otherwise, the first selected term will be the default instead of "Any".

Making A Rustic Pallet Wood Wine Rack

For this video I wanted to test out the Evolution Rage 3 mitre saw that Evolution Tools recently sent to me to try out.  

I had some spare pieces of pallet wood in my workshop, which came from lots of different pallets so I had varing lengths and thicknesses.  I used some 22mm thick pieces to make the frame for the rack, and used the mitresaw to cut all the pieces to size and also to cut the dado housing joints which hold the frame together.  

I cut the holes for the bottles and wine glasses with the jigsaw and then assembled the frame with wood glue and clamps.  Then I cut some thinner 15mm thick pieces of pallet wood to use to clad the back of the rack.  

The whole thing was then stained using Rustic Pine Briwax.  

Then I installed it on my kitchen wall with a couple of screws.  Unfortunately we only had one bottle of wine in thouse house to put in the rack.  Wine never lasts long in my house!

Images: 

Evolution Rage 3 Sliding Compound Mitre Saw and Mitre Stand Review

Evolution Tools got in touch and sent me their Rage 3 compound sliding mitre saw and stand to try out.  It had some great features that I really enjoyed, such as the ability of the blade to cut through metal, and the depth adjustment which is great for cutting dado housing joints.  The saw cuts very cleanly and is well built.  The sliding arm has very little side to side play in it so it cuts very accurately.  For an inexpensive saw I was really impressed.

In this video I unbox it, talk about the features of the saw and compare it with my other mitre saw the Axminster White.

Evolution Rage 3S on amazon: https://goo.gl/Bxo9oo (UK) https://goo.gl/tGUD1E (US) 
Evolution Rage 3DB (double bevel) on amazon: https://goo.gl/w9M3mf (UK) https://goo.gl/TGbF9I (US) 
Evolution Mitre Stand on amazon: https://goo.gl/dSFUzV (UK) https://goo.gl/PaUl7U (US)
Evolution blade on amazon: https://goo.gl/rDA1kg (UK) https://goo.gl/lIZSXL (US)

Making A Workbench Out Of Salvaged Things (part 2 of 2)

In this video I make a worktop for the bench from some 1" thick salvaged plywood which came from some industrial packaging, 

Then I re-fit my Redada Number 2 vise using a spare block between it and the worktop.  

I fitted some drawer handles to the set of drawers that didn't already have them.  

Then I fitted some pieces of pine to trim the worktop and the frame to cover the plywood edges and tidy up the look.  

Finally I applied a few coats of varnish and show you what I've got stored in my new drawers

 

Images: 

Making A Workbench Out Of Salvaged Things (part 1 of 2)

In this video I start making a new workbench for my workshop using salvaged materials.  

I used three sets of drawers salvaged from an office clearance, some salvaged plywood donated to me by a friend, and some parts from my old workbench.  

I began by making a large 3/4 inch plywood box to accommodate the three sets of drawers and added a piece at the back to keep it rigid and square.  

I added the legs from my old workbench to this one, as I wanted the new workbench to be the same height so there was really no need to make them again.  

I also salvaged an old drawer from the old workbench and added it to the new one. 

Images: 

Making A Parquet Coffee Table Using Salvaged Oak (part 2 of 2)

In this video I make a frame for the parquet coffee table top that I made in a previous video using some reclaimed oak hat and coat stands that I salvaged from a local office clearance.  

I first cut the stretchers for the frame to about 12mm thick on the tablesaw.    

Then I cut the legs to length on the mitre saw, and ripped the faces off on the tablesaw to get rid of the routed edges.  

I used a tapering jig to cut a slight taper on the legs using the tablesaw.  

To create mortise joints in the legs to accommodate the stretchers, I made a simple template from some scrap plywood on the bandsaw, and I used this, clamped to the legs, to route out the mortise with a template bit.  

Then I assembled the frame, sanded, and finished with boiled linseed oil and Rustic Pine Briwax.  

I cut some of the left over parquet pieces from the table top build in to cleats, which I used to attach the table top to the frame.

Images: 

Making A Parquet Coffee Table Using Salvaged Oak (part 1 of 2)

I wanted to find a use for lots of short pieces of oak.  These were the feet of some salvaged oak hat and coat stands that I reclaimed from a local office clearance.  

I cut the tapered angle off these pieces on the bandsaw, and then cut the remaining pieces in half which gave me lots of material to use in a parquet design for the table top.  

I planed them all to a consistent size on the thickness planer.  

Then I glued them to a scrap piece of chipboard using woodglue.  

It was important to keep the parquet design as close to a 45 degree angle as possible so that the design would be even and correct, and the speed square helped to keep everything aligned.  

I used a handplane and belt sander to get the tabletop levelled and cleaned up.  Then I cut some more pieces of oak on the tablesaw and mitred the corners to create a trim for the tabletop which I glued and brad nailed to the sides.  

I applied Superior Danish Oil to the oak tabletop (not the chipboard) and finally added a Rustic Pine Briwax to add definition to the grain and to make it match my other furniture more closely.

Images: 

Making Some Hardwood Drinks Coasters

I had lots of offcuts of sapele, oak and teak from the recent dining table build.  They were cluttering up the workshop so I wanted to put them to good use.  

I used the thickness planer to get all of the pieces to a consistent size and to ensure they were all flat.  Then I glued and clamped the pieces together with wood glue.  

When the glue had set, I used a handplane to flatten the laminated workpiece.  

I used a compass to scribe some circles on to the workpiece, and then I could cut the individual coasters out on the bandsaw, and refine the shape of each one on the belt sander.  

I used some double-sided tape to attach some sandpaper to a flat surface (my workbench) and sanded each of the coasters.  Then I applied Superior Danish Oil to bring out the grain nicely.  

Then I added a few coats of varnish, and finally added a coat of clear Briwax which I later buffed to a nice sheen.  I figured the more coats of finish I applied, the more protection from moisture.  

Images: 

Q&A - Your Questions Answered

In this video I answer your questions.....

5 Small Workshop Tips

Five tips for making the most of the space in a small workshop

Making A Vinyl Display Unit

In this video I make a vinyl / record display unit in a mid century modern / vintage style for a friend.  

The unit is made of 3/4 inch plywood that I bought at my local reclamation yard specifically for this build.  The whole unit can be made with only one half of a full standard sheet of plywood.  

I cut some dado housing joints to accommodate the bottom shelf to give it plenty of strength.  

It was assembled with wood glue and brad nails, and finished with Rustic Pine Briwax.  

The hairpin legs were purchased on eBay and they were simply screwed on.  

This unit should hold around 60 records on each side - so 120 in total!  

Free plans for this build are available on the Resources page!

Images: 

Pages