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Building The Workshop Shed Extension (part 1 of 2)

In this video I'm going to be adding an extension to my workshop.
The extension will hold be cantilevered from one of the walls of my workshop, to make it as unobstructive as possible in my garden.
And it will be mounted to the uprights of the workshop wall.  It's a bit of an experiment, as I'm not entirely certain that the wall will be able to take the weight - but we'll find out!
And the plan is to use the extra space to install a new dust collection system with a cyclone.
After drawing up a 3D design in SketchUp, I decided to also make it big enough to accommodate my air compressor.
And I'll also insulate the inside of the extension to try to minimise noise from both the compressor and the dust collection unit.
For the frame of the extension I'd use spruce as I had quite a bit of it in my workshop already. It's good for construction and it's lightweight.
All the pieces I had were 38mm thick, so I set my tablesaw fence to 38mm and ripped some 38mm square pieces.
I used the mitre saw to cut the pieces to length based on the dimensions from my drawing.
First I'd make two rectangles to form the side panels of the extension.
I drilled pilot holes and used glue and screwed butt joints for the joinery.
These rectangles would be mounted to the uprights of the workshop wall. I first marked up a plum line using a spirit level to use as a guide.
And I could use the screws that were holding the cladding in place to indicate where the centre of the uprights were.
I decided to use these concrete screws for mounting the frame.   My uncle gave me a tub full of these a while back and this seemed like a good project to use them as they are very long and strong.
I drilled a 6mm pilot hole through the frame and in to the upright in the wall and added the first screw.  Then I could check for plum using the first screw as a pivot point, and add more screws.
To get the next part of the frame at the right level, I first used a clamp to hold it roughly in place, and then I could use the spirit level taped to a 3 by 2, and make the necessary adjustments from there.
And I secured that to the wall in the same way.
Next I marked up the position of the side panels on to the 3 by 2.  THis would be one of two floor supports.  
I cut it to length, and then marked up the material I wanted to move in order to create a lap joint.  I cut the joint by setting my circular saw blade height to the depth of the joint, and then made a series of cuts.  I could then remove the bulk of the material using a hammer and clean it up with a chisel.
I could then secure it to the side panels with glue and screws.  I cut four of these pieces in total, two to support the front and back of the floor, and two for the roof, which were added in the same way, but upside down.
The next part of the frame would be a diagonal brace, which would add a lot of strength and rigidity to the side panels.  I first cut a 45 degree end on the mitresaw, then I could offer it up and mark it up for length, and make the next cut on that mark. 
And then I could glue and screw that in place.
The frame spanned two more uprights in the wall towards the centre of the extension, so I cut another piece of spruce as a filler piece so that I could add some more fixings to those uprights.  I did the same to the top panel, or roof, too.
Next I added some floor support struts. 
These were attached with glued and screwed through the front, and I drilled some pilot holes at an angle to secure the back.
I also cut and added some  small pieces to make up the difference in height between the bottom of the side panels and the top of the floor supports.
And the roof got a central support brace too.
I bought a sheet of OSB and I'd use this for the floor and roof.
I measured and cut the OSB to size with my circular saw, and cut a couple of notches out to fit around the frame.  THe reason I fitted this piece of OSB next was because it would come  in really handy as shelf while I was working.
I already had a couple of pieces of this cladding at home which were left over from the workshop build four years ago, but not enough to do the whole extension.  I used my circular saw to cut the cladding down so I could fit it in my car.
Before adding the cladding, I decided to start working on the roof, as it was due to rain.  I wanted cut some angled roof trusses and there was an obstacle to work around - this security light.
I measured up the height of that from the frame, and made a mark on a piece of spruce that was about 15mm less than that measurement.  I used my tapering jig on the tablesaw to cut the angled trusses, finishing off the cuts at the bandsaw.
These pieces were glued and screwed to the top of the frame. 
I offered up another piece of OSB for the roof, and all looked good.
I had an old scrap of sapele, and I glued and screwed this to what would be the front edge of the roof panel.  This was just to give me something solid to later tack the roof felt on to.
I could then secure the roof panel to the top of the frame.
I got a roll of roof  felt from my local reclamation yard, and I cut a piece to length and added it to the roof.  This fitted nicely underneath the security light fitting. 
I ripped down the top of one of the pieces of cladding using my circular saw and I'd use this to secure the roof felt to the top of the roof. 
And this is when it started raining!
I cut the corner of the roof felt away and then slid it in place, and then added the piece of cladding using some screws.  I didn't film this because - rain - but this is how it looks now it's fitted.
Then I added some roofing tacks in to the piece of sapele that I added to the OSB earlier.
I could then trim off the excess roof felt with an old knife.
I also added some more sapele to the sides of the OSB roof panel, and the roof felt got attached to that in the same way.
Next I started cutting the cladding to length, using my speed square to guide the cuts.
I used one screw in the centre of each cladding piece.  This will allow for seasonal movement as the wood expands and contracts.

Making A Vinyl Display Box

In this video I make a vinyl / records display box using some salvaged oak veneered MDF which came from some bookshelves reclaimed from an old library.

I used mahogany to trim the edges of the box.


Making A Bandsaw Box Desk Tidy

 Recently one of my YouTube viewers got in touch about a commission.  He was looking for a desk tidy to hold some bottles of ink, and some pens with a drawer where he could put his phone, wallet and keys.
He mentioned that he liked the wedding box and chess set that I'd made and said he was happy to let me design something.
So here's what I came up with as a concept.  And my idea was to build the bottom drawer section first as a bandsaw box, and then mount some pieces on top to form the pen tray and ink bottle holders.
The client was happy with the design, and he sent me one of his ink bottles for reference to get the sizing right, and also this beautifully handwritten letter.
For materials I'd use these offcuts of mahogany left over from the wedding box build, and some pieces of 18mm spruce ply.
I started by cutting the plywood to roughly the size of the mahogany pieces - these pieces of ply will be stacked up and laminated together get the box to the required depth.  I used the tablesaw for the rip cuts and the mitre saw for the cross cuts.
The pieces of mahogany would form the front and the back of the box. I cleaned up the faces with a handplane to get them nice and smooth. 
And then I could glue up the pieces using wood glue and some bar clamps
I let that dry overnight and then I could remove the clamps
I scraped off as much of the glue as possible using a cabinet scraped and then cleaned up one face of the block with my hand plane. That gave me a flat surface to reference against my tablesaw fence so I could clean up the opposite side on the tablesaw.  I did this in multiple passes, raising the blade each time.  The blade didn't quite reach the centre, so I finished off flattening that part with the hand plane, checking with a ruler to make sure it was flat.
And then I cleaned up the front and back faces of the block and marked up the shape I wanted the box to be using a bevel guage to mark up a taper.  I also rounded over the corners using a cap from a bottle.
So now I had the block prepared for the bandsaw box.  And this is only the second bandsaw box I've ever attempted, the first one was a couple of years ago and that one didn't go so well.  But since then I got a new bandsaw and I also learned a lot more about how to set them up correctly.  I normally tend to use 12mm wide 3 or 4 tpi blade on my bandsaw as I find that's good for most bandsaw jobs.   But as this bandsaw box was going to be quite small and with some quite tight curves to cut, I ordered a new narrower 6mm 3 tpi blade.  I thought that would be narrow enough to cut the curves I wanted, but a low enough tpi to handle cutting through a block as big as this. 
Last time I made a bandsaw box I got a lot of blade drift - and I've since learned that was due to me using a higher tpi blade - I'm not going to explain why in detail in this video, but I will include a link in the description box to an excellent video by Matthias Wandell which will explain that better than I ever could.
So after swapping out my 12mm 4 tpi blade for a 6mm 3 tpi blade, and setting up the guide bearings, I was then ready to start cutting out the shape of the box.
Here you can see that the low tpi blade doesn't leave a very clean cut, but the main thing was I didn't get any drift, so I was happy so far.
I used my handplane to refine the shape of the box, rounding over the corners to match the markings I'd made.
Next I did a rip cut on the bandsaw to create the back panel of the box.
And then I could mark up the shape of the drawer on to the front panel which I set in about 8mm from the edges
I started to make that cut on the bandsaw, and this is where I had a problem.  I had planned to make two exit cuts, one on each side of the box which I could glue together later, but when I got here, I realised that the blade was not going to let me cut as tight a curve as I needed.  So I ended up making an exit cut here.
Then I cut the rest of the shape out and fortunately this time I managed to cut the curve on the other side of the box without any issues..
So here's what I had now for the carcass: the left panel,  the right and bottom panel as one piece, a top panel, the back panel.  And the piece the block will later form the drawer.
Before working on the drawer I decided to put the carcass together just to make sure it would work out OK, as I was a bit worried that I might have ruined it at this point.
I cleaned up the bandsaw blade marks on the belt sander, and also flattened where the glue joints would be. THen I glued together the exit cut that wasn't meant to happen, I used tape and some clamps to hold it while the glue dried.
And once the glue had set I then glued on the top panel, and applied a couple of bricks to get a tight glue joint.
Next I started working on the drawer, first cleaning off the bandsaw blade marks.
Then I ripped the front and back panel of the drawer at the bandsaw.
And then after cleaning up the drawer front I then marked up the shape of the drawer.
And I cut that on the bandsaw, and this time the cuts went really well.
I sanded the inside of the drawer using my random orbit sander and also an electric file for the curves.
Then I glued on the front and back panel to form the drawer.
There were a few voids in the plywood pieces that made up the drawer, so I mixed up some epoxy and applied some masking tape to the inside of the drawer and then filled them on the outside of the drawer. The tape was there on the inside just to stop it possibly leaking through. 
Then I did some sanding to clean up the carcass, and glued on the back panel.  And more sanding,.  I sanded up to 240 grit, first with power sanders through the lower grits and 240 grit by hand.  I also eased over any sharp edges to make it more comfortable to touch.
I decided to make some feet for the box using some more mahogany.  I cut some small pieces to the same size as the depth of the box, and then I used my hand plane to put a bevel on each side to give the legs a tapered look.
And the position of the legs also meant that the exit cut I made on the bandsaw earlier that wasn't meant to be there would be hidden - which was a nice bonus
I fired in a couple of brad nails to secure the legs, making sure to choose a nail size that wouldn't break through to the inside of the box.
And I also stamped on my makers mark to the bottom.
I wanted the drawer front to be flush with the front of the carcass, so I used a combination of a handplane with the grain of the wood, and a chisel to clean up the cross grain at the sides of the box until it was flush.
Next I started working on the top part of the box and again I used some offcuts of mahogany.  I first squared up the edges at the table saw and mitresaw, and then used a hand plane to clean up the faces.  First I made the trays for the ink bottles to sit in.
The bottles measured just over 55mm wide, I marked up a centre point and then working from that centre point outwardse I marked up the space for three of the ink bottles
The plan here was to cut out the waste where the bottles would be, and then re-assemble it with wood glue so that the wood grain matches nicely.
So ripped the first piece.  Then I realised I hadn't accounted for the kerf of the blade so I needed to extend the markings I'd made by about 3mm and then I cut the centre piece. 
And I tested the width of that centre piece and the measurement was 56mm which was perfect.
So then I could cut out the tray dividers using my cross cut sled.
And after cutting another horizontal piece, I could then reassemble it using wood glue and masking tape.
Then I cleaned it up on the belt sander.
I applied glue and positioned it where I wanted it. 
Next I'd make the pen tray, and this would be assembled with mitre joints.   I first ripped three  thin strips of mahogany at the table saw and 1 45 degree on one end of each piece. 
Then I offered up what would be the front piece to the ink tray to mark it up at the same length and then cut it to length and I checked that was ok.
Then I measured the depth they needed to be, marked them up and cut them to length 
And then I could glue the pieces in place.  I used a scrap of plywood to distribute the weight from my brick. Then I cleaned up the joints
with my block plane.  I also rounded over the front pieces of both the pen and the ink trays.  
After blowing away the dust, I then applied some boiled linseed oil.  I tried not to get the oil on the bottom of the inside of the trays as this is where the felt would be glued later and I wasn't sure it would stick so well to oiled wood.
I got some of this red felt and cut it with a knife to fit inside the trays.
I used epoxy to glue the felt in place.
And I used a block of wood to push it down and then applied some weight.
For the ink trays I could use the offcuts from when I cut the pieces for the ink trays to clamp down the felt.
Finally I applied some clear Briwax to the drawer - I thought this might help it slide better and it did seem to help, but I later added a bit of candle wax and that worked even better.
I wanted to find a small brass handle, and this was the smallest I could find at 20mm.  I found this in a shop called WIlkinsons in the UK.
The bolt was a little long, so I cut it down to length with a hacksaw.
Then I marked up a centre point, drilled a hole and fitted the handle.
After a final buffing of the wax, I could package up the box and send it to the client.

Rustic Coat Racks With Shelves

A couple of years ago I salvaged some hat and coat stands, and I used them to make loads of things like this table top, a neck for an electric guitar, this table frame and this chopping board.
I saved all the coat hooks from them so I decided to make some coat racks.
I found a few pallets recently so I decided to use pallet wood.
So I broke them all down in to pieces, and removed the nails.
And I decided to use some of these wider pallet slats from one of the pallets.
I started by chopping off the ends where the nails holes were.
And I kept hold of the offcuts, and marked up a line across them diagonally, and made cuts following the line on the bandsaw. These pieces would be brackets to hold a top shelf for the coat rack.
I applied glue to the back, and nailed them in place with brads to hold them temporarily and then re-enforced them with some screws.
Then I added another piece of the wood on top of those brackets, which was glued and nailed in place, and then I added some F clamps to get nice tight glue joints
And I decided to paint the rack with some of this green paint I found in my shed, this colour is called sea moss.  And basically I painted quite badly, deliberately, as I wanted these to look rustic.  So I painted it lightly without trying to get it evenly covered.
Then went the paint was dry I used my random orbit sander with a 40 grit disc to remove some of that paint to get it to look worn and weathered, and also to smooth over this rough sawn wood and remove any splinters.
Then I applied a coat of spray varnish just to seal the paint and also to bring out the wood grain.
Next I added the coat hooks, I first found the centre and added one hook there. And then I could position the others and 5 hooks looked like the right amount.  I measured in about 5cm from both sides and added those.  And then I found the centre in between the hooks that had been fitted and added hooks there too.
I then did some final sanding by hand just with 120 grit paper, and added a final coat of spray varnish, Just to the shelf and the sides where I had sanded by hand.
Next I sanded a spot on the back of the rack in the centre so that I could add my makers mark.
And then I sealed that with spray varnish too.
And that was the first rack done, and I had enough of this wood to make two racks, so I finished the second rack with Rustic Pine Briwax just for a different look.

Circular Plywood Coffee Table

I had a few small offcuts of this 18mm spruce plywood, and they were kind of getting in the way in the workshop so I wanted to find a use for them.  These were offcuts from the hifi unit commission that I made recently.
I wanted to make another plywood table top because I really like the last one that I'd made.  But I wanted this one to be quite different in style.
I started by ripping the pieces of ply in to 35mm wide strips at the tablesaw
Then I laid out the strips to check for any imperfections in the layers of ply, and this is good quality stuff so there weren't really any voids in it but there were one or two knots, so I pulled out the worst pieces.
And I was left with enough material to cut a circle around 570mm in diameter. 
I found the centre point and then marked up a circle by measuring the radius of the circle from the centre point. This didn't need to be an accurate circle, this was purely to help position the strips correctly and to help line up the pieces correctly during the glue up.
Next I applied wood glue to each piece, spread it out and lined up all the circle markings. 
I used some bar clamps to clamp the pieces together.  
Originally I was planning to glue up the whole lot in one go, but as the glue up took some time I wanted to apply clamp pressure before the glue set, so I ended up doing the glue up in two halves instead.
I used the edge of a steel ruler just to make sure that the pieces had been clamped nice and flat.
And then I could glue the two halves of the circle together.
After a few hours I removed the clamps and used a cabinet scraper to remove any glue squeeze out.
I could then work on getting the pieces of ply perfectly flush with one another and ensure the table top was flat, so I used my no.5 hand plane.  It was close to flat anyway so it only needed some light shavings removed. 
Next I needed to cut the circle, and I'd do this using the tablesaw.  I needed to make a quick jig to help with this.
I first ripped a piece of oak to the width of my tablesaw slots.  On first attempt it was a bit too tight, so I moved the fence by a very slight amount and took a second pass and then it was a nice fit.
I glued and nailed it on to a scrap piece of veneered MDF, making sure that it would overlap the blade by a few centimetres, and then made a zero clearance cut.
Next I needed to add a pin at the distance from the blade that I wanted the radius of my circle to be.
I used a nail for this, which I hammered in place and then used my angle grinder to remove the head of the nail. I made a few tweaks to ensure it was upright.
 I was all ready to make a start cutting the circle, but then I decided it would be good to add a slight angle to the sides of the table top so I ended up flipping the jig on to the other side of the blade. SO I needed to reset the pin again.
I could then drill at the centre point of the underside of the table top, and put it on to the pin on the jig.
Then I swapped out my insert and angled my blade to 5 degrees.
And I could start making the cuts.  
I'd never tried this method of cutting a circle before, and I was a little bit worried about the blade possibly catching the circle and kicking back as I pulled the workpiece back towards me before making the next pass.  But I just made sure that I was applying enough downward pressure to the circle so that it wouldn't twist, and fortunately I didn't have any problems. 
When it was almost a perfect circle I could then slightly advance it forward in to the blade and spin it to shave off the rest of the material.
The layers of ply looked really cool. 
Next I did some sanding with my random orbit sander at 80, 120 and 240 grit. 
And then I sanded by hand at 400 grit.
And then I applied some boiled linseed oil to pop the grain. 
For the legs of this table I'd use these painted hardwood dowels which came from an old broken parasol. You can see one of them has a crack in it.
I cut away the pieces I didn't need
Then I set up a stop block and cut them to length and I only had enough good material here to make three legs, but I thought that would make for quite an interesting look.
I used a cabinet scraper to remove the paint. I'm not sure what wood this is.
I wanted to taper the legs, and I don't have a lathe so to do this I first marked up a smaller circle on the end of the dowels just as a reference and I used my spoke shave to taper the legs.
And the legs kept getting away from me while I was spoke shaving and scraping
So I ended up putting a couple of scrap pieces of wood in the vise to stop them jumping away, and that worked well.
I also used my block plane to do a bit more shaping.
And then I sanded the legs by hand and this is how they looked.
Next I needed to make some leg support blocks, and I'd use this piece of pine pallet wood.
I first cleaned up the faces with my hand plane. 
Then I cut it to the right thickness at the tablesaw.
And then I cut the blocks to length.
Then width.
And then I cut a 45 degree angle on one side of each of them so that the blocks would be less visible.
And I marked up the centre of each block ready for drilling.
Next I made a simple jig to help me to drill consistent angles through each leg block.
This was just a scrap of ply with some small pieces of wood nailed to it. 
And this shot is just showing what the angle of the leg would be once the holes were drilled
The dowels were 36mm so I chose a 35mm forstner bit to drill the holes. 
I moved the jig so that the drill bit was lined up with the centre mark , and then clamped it to the table.
And then I could drill the hole for each leg.
So I cut another 45 degree angle on to the other side of the blocks,
And then cut a 90 degree angle on to the other side.
Next I needed to take off about 1mm from the diameter of the dowels so that they would fit inside the leg blocks, so I used an old sanding belt for that.
Then I could add glue to the leg blocks and push the legs in. And I drilled a hole with a countersink bit for a 40mm screw which would re-enforce the joint.
Then I needed to remove the excess material at the top of the block which I did on the bandsaw first, and then I cleaned it up with a hand plane.
Next I needed to position the three legs, and I knew that the inside angle of an equalateral triangle was 60 degrees so I set my protractor to 60 degrees, and that helped me to mark up a triangle. I made sure that each point was roughly the same distance from the next, and they were within a couple of mm which was ok.  I wasn't bothered about getting it perfect - I just wanted the table to be supported well and for it to look right by eye.
So now I had the position for the leg blocks.
I decided not to glue the leg blocks to the table and just use screws instead, as I was making this table for sale to be listed on my Etsy shop online - and if I need to package it up and send it to the buyer, it'll be a lot easier to do that with the legs removable.
Finally I just needed to shape the bottom of each leg, and I used my electric file for that.

Girlfriend Makes A Wedding Gift Box

In this video my girlfriend and I make a wedding gift box to hold some gin and tonic.


Rustic Pine Dovetail Bench Seat

In this video I make a rustic pine dovetailed bench seat from an old pine dining table top


VLOG 1 - Salvaged Wood Haul / Work In Progress / New Camera Gear / Tool Talk

0:36 Salvaged Wood Haul
4:26 Coming Soon & Work In Progress
8:00 New Camera & Audio Gear
11:29 Tool Talk - Festool Domino, Makita LXT Trim Router & more
Affiliate links:
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Panasonic V770 Camcorder: http://amzn.to/2xEtA7S (Amazon UK)  http://amzn.to/2ymQVKa (Amazon US)
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Making Pet Beds

In this video I make some miniature beds for cats and dogs or other small pets out of some reclaimed pine bed slats.


Repairing A Vintage Display Cabinet (Part 2 of 2)

In this video I repair and restore a vintage display cabinet. I sand and re-finish the top, re-finish the legs and make new shelves for it.

In the last video - part 1 - I repaired the legs on the display unit.  I made new wings for one of the legs and after sanding the leg I needed to try to match the colour of the other legs on to this one.

I first applied some of this dark teak stain, and that did a pretty good job of blending in the colour of the new wood with the old. I I applied two coats.
And because the other legs had a slight red coloured tint to them, I thought I'd try some of this mahogany varnish, which also has a red tint to it, and that helped to blend the colours even more and by this point there was really no discernable difference between the colours of the repaired leg and the old ones, so after letting the varnish dry I applied some spray varnish.  
And when that was dry I sanded at 400 grit, to get the finish smooth, and then wiped away the dust and applied a second coat. And I was happy with how it looked - it was a prety good match so I left it there.
Next I did some sanding to the side of the unit which had had some damage to it, and I then I started work sanding down the top.  The top was solid wood so I didn't need to worry about sanding through any veneers.  I sanded at 80 with my random orbit sander and the old finish clogged up the paper quite a lot so I went through a few discs. Then I sanded at 120 and then 240 by hand. 
And I also sanded the veneered back panel by hand.  For some reason it hadn't occurred to me to look and see if I could remove the back panel first - which was a bit stupid of me - and more on that later.
Then I wiped the surface clean with some mineral spirits.
And then I hand sanded at 400 grit. 
And then I applied boiled linseed oil to nourish the wood.
When the oil had dried I applied spray varnish.  I chose it as a top coat because I knew it would be hardwearing which I think is required for a top like this as it's bound to have drinks and things put on top of it at some point in it's life.
Then I wet sanded with mineral spirits at 400 grit to smooth over the finish. 
Now before I got to applying a second coat of the spray varnish, I noticed that the back panel was simply screwed to the top from underneath.
So at this point I created more work for myself, and decided it'd be better to remove it, as that would give me access to the whole top, and better access to the veneer on the back panel too, but ofcourse that meant that I needed to start again with the re-finishing process.
So I used a cabinet scraper to remove as much of the top coat that I could, and then sanded back to bear wood once again.  It was quite annoying having to do this again, but it was my own fault for not thinking it through before jumping straight in to it - and I thought it would be worth it to do this again and do it properly.  
So after sanding again, and wiping away the dust again I applied spray varnish again, then I wet sanded again at 400 grit, and applied a second coat. Then I wet sanded again at 600 grit and applied a third coat. 
I used an 80 grit paper on the belt sander to remove the veneer.
I sanded at 80, 120 and then 240 grit with my random orbit sander to remove any marks left by the belt sander.  And then I used the dark teak stain again to better match the colour of the top.  After staining I sanded by hand at 400 grit and then applied some more of the mahogany varnish to give it more of a red tint.
And when that was dry I finished with spray varnish, sanding between coats again using the same method as I had for the top.
And it turned out pretty good.
So then I added the old screws again but the panel still fitted quite loose so I drilled some new pilot holes using a right angle drill attachment, and then added new screws and it was nice and solid after that.
The next job was to make new shelves for the unit, so I first measured up the internal dimensions. 
For the shelves I'd use some of these oak veneered pieces of MDF that I salvaged some time ago from a book case.  I wanted to use what I had rather than buying something else.
I first needed to remove the solid oak trim, these were joined with glue and biscuits but a mallet loosened them up.
Then I cut them to length at the mitre saw.
And then I drew one half of the semi circle just freehand, and cut that out on the bandsaw. I used a handsaw to finish off the cut at the halfway mark
And I could use the offcut flipped over to mark up the other half of the shelf, and cut that on the bandsaw too.
I also cut off the protruding biscuits from the back edge at the bandsaw too.
Next I could scrape off the old finish with a cabinet scraper and sand back to bear wood.
I could then used the solid oak pieces of trim to make a new edge banding for the shelves to hide the MDF edges.
So I ripped some very thin  slithers of oak, probably about 1-2 mm thick.
and then I could glue them on, holding them in place with an F clamp in the middle and plenty of masking tape.
After a few house I removed the tape and then used a blockplane to flush trim the edge banding to the shelf.
I didn't have enough of the dark teak stain left to do these shelves so to get them to better match the rest of the unit I used some walnut coloured Briwax instead.  I wasn't really trying for a perfect match here, just a better match.
With one shelf finished, I could then mark up the next piece and I made the second shelf in the same way.
Next it was time to fit the shelves, and I found to get them in through the doors and on to the pins needed to be done in a certain order, otherwise they wouldn't fit.
Finally I just needed to give the unit a good clean, I used glass cleaner on the glass and hoovered the inside.
That's the display cabinet finished and I'm really glad I managed to salvage this - as soon as I saw a picture of it I really wanted to fix it up and give it a new lease of life.
I don't have space for this in my home unfortunately, but after posting a photo of it on social media, I do have a buyer lined up for it - and I'm really happy that it's going to a good home.
This project took me around 15 hours to complete, and it's difficult to make a financial profit on this kind of project, mainly because display cabinets like this one aren't particularly fashionable at the moment so they can be bought secondhand for not a lot of money, but they are usually in really bad shape - whereas this one is now probably stronger than it's ever been, and I think it looks fantastic, I really like the style of this particular one.   
If the unit had been a more valuable piece of furniture, an antique for example, then I definitely would have done more of a sympathetic restoration - for example I would have used modern screws - so this was more about fixing it up and making it a useable piece of furniture rather than restoring it as such. The reasons I'm pointing this out is because I usually get some criticism in the comments on these videos from one of two extremes - I either get people telling me a piece of furniture like this is not worth wasting my time on, or from the other side saying that I've not done the restoration sypathetically enough. But what's important to me is that I've saved this piece of furniture from being thrown away, and it's now in a condition where it should be a useful piece of furniture for many years to come.
One thing that I didn't manage to fix on this project was to find a key for the lock.  There is a lock number on the lock, but after doing some research, unsurprisingly it doesn't seem like these are available to buy anymore.
So what I'll probably do before the buyer collects it is to buy and fit a brass handle for the door, just to make it easy to open and close.
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