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Making A Sander Cabinet

In this video I make a simple wall mounted cabinet to hold my sander, sanding discs and wet and dry paper.

In this video I want to make a simple cabinet to hold my sanding supplies and sander.  Plans for this build will be available via my Patreon page.
At the moment I keep all my sanding discs in this drawer and the problem with that is that I never know when I'm running low of any particular grit sanding disc. 
I also have the same issue with my wet and dry paper which I currently keep under my workbench here.
And I've run out of space under the mitre station where I store all my tools so my new random orbital sander needs a new home.
I decided to remove my workshop whiteboard as I thought the sanding cabinet was a better use of the space
 And for this buid I'm going to use some offcuts of 12mm shuttering ply wood, this is just cheap low grade stuff, I tend to not use good quality materials for workshop projects like this.
I first set my tablesaw to 155mm which   would be the depth of the cabinet - as the biggest sanding discs I have are 150mm and I wanted the cabinet to be a bit deeper than that.
I ripped all of the pieces of ply I had to that width.  Some of the pieces I had were less than 155mm wide but they'd still be wide enough to hold my sanding discs, so I tweaked my design a bit so that the upper shelves would be slightly narrower.  I did this purely to make the best use out of the materials I had and for no other reason.
Next I set a stop block up at my mitre station, to the width I wanted the cabinet to be and I cut two pieces - the top and bottom panels. 
Then I set the stop block to the height I wanted the cabinet to be and cut two pieces for the side panels.
And then I set the stop block to the width of the shelves and cut those too.
I'd need some section dividers too so I ripped some thin pieces of the ply on my tablesaw.
I cut those to length with the stop block set to the depth that the cabinet would be at the mitre saw too, this time using a push stick to hold the workpiece in place so I could keep my fingers a safe distance from the blade.
I sanded all of the pieces at 120 grit - it was much easier to do this before assembling while I had good access to all of the pieces.
To assemble I just used wood glue and brad nails. My speed square helped keep everything square.
Then I could add the section dividers to the inside with glue and brad nails too. 
I used a scrap of the plywood cut do the width of the sections as a spacer to keep the size of each section consistent.
Then I could add the shelf below working from top down and I used another section divider to get the spacing right for the shelves before adding nails through the side panels to secure the shelf.
I kept repeating the process until all the shelves were added.  When I got to the bottom shelf it was a little bit tight to get my nailer inside the cabinet. 
In hindsight what would have been much easier would have been to assemble the shell of the cabinet without the bottom shelf, so just the top and side panels, then add the shelves internally, and then add the bottom of the cabinet last.  
But I managed to get a couple of nails in from the back of the cabinet with the nailer held at an angle.  And at the back I just used a couple of F clamps to get the joints nice and tight.
I used some wood filler to fill all the nail holes and also any visible voids between the layers of ply.
Once the filler was dry I gvae the cabinet another sanding first with my random orbit sander and then I eased over the sharp edges of the shelves by hand with 120 grit.
I decided to paint the outside of the cabinet, mainly just to help it blend in with the walls and help bounce the light around a little more. I used primer and undercoat first and then a couple of hours later applied some white silk paint off camera.
To hang the cabinet on the wall I'd use french cleats.I tilted my tablesaw blade to 45 degrees and ripped a thin piece of spruce roughly down the middle and then I marked up the width of the cabinet on to the two pieces and cut them to length.
I added the cleat to the back of the cabinet with glue and brad nails. 
I also added another piece of spruce which was the same thickness to the bottom of the cabinet in the same way - this is just a spacer so that the cabinet hangs level on the wall. 
The other half of the french cleat was mounted to the uprights of my workshop wall. I used a small spirit level to make sure it was level.
Then I could add my discs to each section.  I wrote on the grits using a Sharpie pen to get organised.  I tend to always buy the same grits of sanding discs - 240, 120, 80, 60 & 40 so I designed my cabinet to hold those grits.
 I also always buy the same grits of wet and dry paper, which are 1200, 600, 400 and 240 so I designed the cabinet to hold those too.
I usually tend to use only small pieces of wet and dry paper each time I use it, but occasionally I use half sheets in the long direction - when flattening the sole of a handplane for example.  So I figured I could half them all and store them like that.  I couldn't think of a time when I've ever used a whole sheet so this should work out fine for me. 
And I had two small sections left over - I'd use one for my 125mm sanding base, as my sander came with both a 150 and a 125mm base. 
And the other small section would be useful for storing my grinding discs.
And the bottom shelf would accommodate the sander itself.
I also added a nail to the side of the cabinet to store the spanner which came with my sander for swapping the different sized sanding bases.
This was a quick and easy project, it took around 3 hours, and it's really useful to be able to see at a glance what sanding supplies I have.  The top of the cabinet is also useful - any horizontal surfaces in my small workshop tend to get filled pretty quickly as you can see.